Estimated reading time: 12 minutes
Welcome to our Hainan Island, China Road trip adventure!
As a resident of Hainan since 2020, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing the island’s natural beauty firsthand.
In this blog post, I’ll take you on a journey through picturesque landscapes, and reveal the unexpected surprises we encountered along the way.
Buckle up and join us as we explore Hainan’s roads, charming pit stops, and breathtaking viewpoints.
Let’s hit the road!
Table of contents
Background
I’ve been living in Hainan, China since August 2020.
Known for its natural beauty and tropical climate, Hainan Island offers an idyllic backdrop for exploration and adventure.
In November 2023, I finally got my Chinese Driver’s license, which gave me a newfound sense of freedom to tour and see the beauty of the island.
I hadn’t driven a vehicle, other than my e-bike, since October 2019 and felt nervous. Not driving for so long, and then driving in a foreign country, was daunting. However, once we set out, it was like riding a bike – you never forget!
Driving in China is easy and straightforward.
The drivers tend to be cautious, driving slowly and stopping often, making it easier to navigate than in Canada. The signs are all in Chinese and English, and our maps sync perfectly.
First Road Trip in China
Our day started out slow, but we made it out the door at about 10:30 am.
Surprisingly, the traffic wasn’t too congested as we left the city. It takes about 40 minutes to be fully outside Haikou, the capital city of Hainan Province.
Our first pit stop was down a side road off the main highway beside a farm where we let Cathy out to stretch a bit.
It was overcast, so the sun wasn’t searing down on us like it usually does. It was perfect driving weather, comfortable enough to make pit stops along the way to explore and take pictures.
The rural areas in Hainan are adorned with beautiful tropical trees, flowers, and lush green grass.
The air, fresh from the seaside, carries a slight salty tang, and the breeze cools things down.
There is a load of cows once you leave the city, so we didn’t stay too long in case the cows decided to be inhospitable.
Jungle Drive
Next, we pulled down a small gravel road leading into the jungle.
The narrow road, covered in reddish sand, was flanked by an array of trees including palm trees, fir tree variations, and pine trees, creating a picturesque landscape.
Everything was so lush and vibrant with different tones of green surrounding us. As we drove, we stayed on the main road but noticed little trails and smaller roads that seemed to lead to homes and farms.
The atmosphere was alive with the sounds of the jungle. Birds, resembling small blackbirds and sparrows, fluttered around, chirping.
Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes, possibly because there wasn’t much ground water in the bush.
We drove a bit, then pulled over for another pit stop, spending about 30 minutes walking around and taking pictures. It was so quiet and peaceful.
For wildlife, we saw one little rat on the side of the road. Thankfully, Cathy knows not to bother anything, so she kept her distance after stopping and raising her ears and tail to let us know she found something interesting.
After taking pictures, I gave the little rat a small soda cracker, and we were on our way again, soaking in the beauty of our surroundings.
Scenic Stops and Roadside Viewpoint
Our next stop was a roadside viewpoint.
In December 2023, a new ring road around the entire island was opened, featuring several scenic spots, with this being the first one outside of Haikou. The view was nice, surrounded by the sea and rocky volcanic tropical landscape.
The new highway has a speed limit of 40 km/hr, likely because many locals drive their e-bikes between farms. We stopped a few times to grab some nice shots of the scenery but it felt onerous to drive under 40km/hr.
While at the scenic stop, we noticed a lighthouse marked on the map. Intrigued, we decided to continue driving to the lighthouse to see what we could discover.
Lighthouse Lunch Stop
We saw the sign for the Mulan Lighthouse, so we pulled in and decided to explore.
The parking lot was basically a cleared area of beach sand, so we parked and let Cathy out for a little stretch. A few dogs were running around, so we quietly put Cathy back in the car and headed towards the beach, just about 50 feet away.
At the beach, we saw wooden skiffs parked out on the water after their early morning fishing expedition.
The scene was incredible, with fishing boats lined up and chickens, ducks, and geese roaming freely along the beach shore, feeding on coconuts and whatever else they found.
Everything felt calm and peaceful, so we decided to stay a bit, have lunch, and enjoy the local atmosphere.
Enjoying a Family Roadside Diner
A small family runs a diner with a mountain of coconuts beside the deck where the makeshift dining tables are set up.
The wooden patio was bustling with people eating hot pot and drinking fresh coconut water.
Free-range chickens and geese ran around our feet finding leftover rice on the floor under the tables, and there was a large tank where the fresh catch of the day was kept.
The people are very warm and welcoming. When we first arrived, there were no tables left, but the owners swiftly got us set up with two huge wooden patio chairs and a charming wooden patio table.
The food smelled incredible! There’s something about sitting seaside at a rustic patio that makes everything smell fantastic!
Coconut chicken hot pot is pretty much all they served. If you haven’t had a hot pot yet, check out this post for a quick and easy recipe to make your own hot pot at home!
Interactions with Locals
People approached us with curiosity.
As two foreigners in the countryside of China, we stood out, but everyone was friendly and kind, asking where we were from.
Murphy was busy working on medical stuff in Chinese when one man came over and asked if he was a doctor. They shared a brief exchange while I sat back, sipping my fresh coconut, taking it all in.
I felt a warmth from the friendliness and welcoming attitude of the people around us, whether fellow customers, travellers from mainland China, local residents, or the owners’ family.
Presence
In China, English education starts in Grade 3, but most people rarely have the opportunity to practice unless they work for companies that require English for international meetings and events. Consequently, it’s up to us to learn Mandarin.
Murphy and I have both been studying Chinese since we arrived in China, going on five years. We enjoy the opportunity to practice Chinese and English with new people we meet.
There’s something profound about being among crowds of people all speaking a foreign language.
I’ve discovered it grounds me in the present moment. As I listen carefully to the conversations around me for a clue to the language I’ve been learning for the better part of four years, my mind is focused solely on the present moment.
The family were all discussing what to put into our hotpot. The young son came to our table and asked us how we wanted our hotpot served.
We told him we would put our own vegetables into it and to bring the coconut water and chicken.
The young boy immediately returned to the kitchen and fetched a gas burner and a large silver pot. He set it up in the middle of our table and poured in the water from two fresh coconuts. Then, he set it on high to cook and added the freshly butchered chicken. We probably saw it running around when we arrived.
After about ten minutes, he came back to our table with a container filled with Chinese cabbage and other vegetables, along with some sauces.
As we waited for the hotpot to cook, Murphy studied his workbook, and I started writing this blog post to capture each moment of our day up to this point.
The aroma of the cooking chicken and fresh coconut water filled the air, blending with the earthy scent of the surrounding jungle and the salty breeze from the nearby sea.
The setting was idyllic, with the sound of clucking chickens and the occasional bark of a dog adding to the rustic charm of the place.
The warmth and hospitality of the family made us feel right at home.
There was a communal rice pot—it’s HUGE! Once our hot pot was almost ready, we took our rice bowls and scooped out hefty servings of rice for our side dish. We also prepared a small bowl for Cathy; she loves to drink coconut water and eat chicken, so hot pot is one of her favourite dishes. After preparing her bowl, we set it aside to cool and then started our meal.
The flavors were amazing!
Coconut chicken is a local dish where the chickens eat coconuts, and then they are cooked in coconuts. Chicken raised and prepared this way results in a beautiful dish. The meat is white, tender, and infused with the essence of coconut, creating a unique and delicious flavor that is both rich and subtle.
While we were eating, one of the older sons, maybe mid-teens, came over smiling. He told me in English, “There are many people.”
I replied, “Yes, 很多人 (hěn duō rén).”
He smiled and said in English, “My English is very poor.”
I laughed and said, “不是, 你的英语很好 (bú shì, nǐ de yīng yǔ hěn hǎo)!”
Everyone around us laughed.
When people tell me their English is very bad, I respond with, “Your English is better than my Chinese!”
People are self-conscious about their English when speaking to a native speaker, just as I am when speaking Chinese to a native speaker.
Yet, we always find a middle ground for communication, sometimes using charades and “Chinglish” (a mix of Chinese and English) to ensure understanding.
I always leave conversations smiling and feeling like I have learned something.
Final Thoughts
We spent about 2.5 hours at this lovely spot, enjoying a delicious lunch and the warm hospitality of the local family.
After finishing our meal, we walked around with Cathy, letting her stretch her legs and take in the sights.
Feeling rejuvenated and connected with the island we’ve come to love, we hopped back in the car to continue our adventure.
Touring Hainan Island has been an incredible experience, and we’re excited to learn more about its beauty and charm.
Stay tuned for the next post, where I’ll share our upcoming stops and more pictures from our beautiful journey through Hainan Island, China!
Thanks for stopping by!
Until next time,
Suzanne
Inspiring a Fulfilled Life 
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